Right-Hand Compound Bows

What is a right-hand compound bow?

You can spot a right-hand compound by two things: the sight window is cut on the right side, and the bow is held in the left hand while the right hand draws the string. Sounds counterintuitive at first, but it's the standard naming convention. What matters isn't which hand you write with, it's which eye you aim with. Your dominant eye determines the handedness of your bow.

Technically, a right-hand bow is otherwise identical to its left-hand counterpart. Cam mechanics, let-off, limbs and strings are mirror-image but identical in design. The price is the same too, manufacturers don't charge a premium for one or the other. Selection is broader for right-hand bows, however, because roughly 90 percent of archers shoot right. This also affects the accessory market, especially for releases and quivers.

Eye or hand: which bow is right for you?

Before you buy a compound bow, the diamond test is worth a couple of minutes. Stretch both arms forward, form a small opening between your thumbs and index fingers, and fixate on a distant object through that opening. Slowly pull your hands toward your face. Which eye do they land in front of? That's your dominant eye. Repeat the test two or three times to confirm.

Roughly 10 percent of all people have cross-dominance, meaning their dominant eye doesn't match their writing hand. If your test clearly indicates cross-dominance, follow the eye. Archery motor skills are learned from scratch anyway, so whether you end up holding the bow in your left or right hand after 2 to 4 weeks of practice makes no difference to your long-term success. What does cause lasting frustration is a bow that doesn't match your dominant eye.

Which compound bow for which skill level?

Compound is not just compound. Between a €200 entry-level model and a €1,700 Olympic-class tournament bow lie worlds of difference in materials, tolerances and adjustability. To save you from getting lost in the 20 visible models, here's an honest breakdown by experience level.

Beginners and exploration phase: €200 to €400

If you're transitioning from recurve or have never held a compound before, bows with a wide adjustment range are the right call. Models like the DRAKE Gecko RTS (30 to 55 lbs, around €200) or the DRAKE Pathfinder Basic/Starter series (40 to 65 lbs, €209 to €268) cover a broad draw weight range and grow with you. RTS stands for "Ready-to-Shoot", meaning release, sight, arrow rest and quiver are included. You can step onto the range straight out of the box.

Rule of thumb for your start: men begin with 35 to 40 lbs peak weight, women with 25 to 30 lbs. The let-off only relieves you at full draw, while drawing back you have to handle the full peak weight. Too much draw weight is the most common beginner mistake and leads to poor form that takes effort to correct later.

Intermediate and club archers: €400 to €1,000

If you're training at a club or have already put a few hundred arrows downrange, a bow with tighter tolerances and a more stable cam geometry pays off. The BEAR Archery Adapt 2 (45 to 70 lbs, around €442) and the BEAR Gamekeeper (45 to 70 lbs, around €563) are solid all-rounders with good adjustability. If you're drawn to 3D parcours shooting or the hunting aesthetic, this is honest middle-class territory.

For ambitious archers with tournament ambitions, you go up another tier. The BEAR Persist (around €946) and the BOWTECH Revolt XL (60 to 70 lbs, around €1,097) offer noticeably more shot stability, higher IBO speeds and reduced vibration.

Tournament and top-level: from €1,300

If you compete in club events or shoot World Archery tournaments seriously, the flagship models deliver what makes the difference. The MATHEWS Lift 33 (60 or 70 lbs, around €1,329), the MATHEWS Title 38 (around €1,469) and the HOYT Concept X 40 (40 to 70 lbs, around €1,666) operate at the highest level when it comes to tolerances, cam synchronization and shot reproducibility. We're no longer talking about bows that "grow with you", these are precisely tuned sporting instruments.

One thing we see again and again: a beginner won't shoot better with a €1,700 bow than with a €500 model. Technique matters, not price. So if you're still in the learning phase, invest in a good coach rather than a high-end bow.

Technical specs that actually matter

There's often a gap between spec sheets and real-world performance. What should you actually pay attention to when buying a compound bow?

Let-off

Let-off describes how much draw weight remains at full draw. With 80 percent let-off and a 60 lbs peak weight, you hold only 12 lbs at the anchor. Typical values range from 65 to 85 percent. If you want to aim calmly and for longer, go for models at the upper end. If you prefer a more aggressive shot, for instance for hunting where legal, 65 to 70 percent is a good fit.

Axle-to-axle (ATA)

The distance between the cam axles determines the bow's length. Short bows from 28 to 32 inches are agile and popular on 3D courses. Mid-length bows from 33 to 36 inches strike a good balance between stability and handling. Long target bows from 37 to 42 inches, like the MATHEWS Title 38 or the HOYT Concept X 40, are the most forgiving and therefore ideal for beginners and precision archers.

Brace height

The brace height is the distance between the string and the lowest point of the grip. Values between 7 and 8 inches make the bow forgiving and tolerant of small form errors. Low brace heights of 6 to 6.5 inches mean more speed but less tolerance for minor inconsistencies in your draw.

IBO speed

The International Bowhunting Organization defines a standardized measurement: 70 lbs draw weight, 30-inch draw length, 350-grain arrow. Entry-level bows produce 280 to 310 fps, top-tier models reach 350+ fps. For context, 300 fps equals roughly 330 km/h (205 mph) arrow speed. Real-world figures usually run 10 to 20 fps below manufacturer claims. Every inch of shorter draw length costs you about 10 fps.

What you'll need alongside the compound bow

A compound bow alone is only half the equation. Budget €200 to €400 for sensible accessories, unless your bow already ships as an RTS set. Specifically, you'll need a release (€50 to €200, wrist-strap release is safest for beginners), a sight (€35 to €1,300, pin sights for 3D and hunting style, scopes for target), an arrow rest (€30 to €200, drop-away for maximum precision, whisker biscuit for durability), matching carbon arrows with the correct spine value (€6 to €15 per arrow, minimum six pieces), a D-loop, and a peep sight that should be served into the string by a bow technician.

Don't forget the bow case. A compound stays under tension at all times, transporting one unprotected isn't a great long-term idea. Soft case or hard case runs €40 to €300.

Shooting compound: disciplines and competition

Compound has its own dedicated class in competitive archery. Under World Archery rules, outdoor distance is 50 metres on an 80 cm face, indoor is 18 metres on the 3-spot face with a 2 cm 10-ring. Field and 3D archery vary in distance, and the appeal lies in estimating range. The Olympic debut is planned for 2028 in Los Angeles as a mixed team event.

Important for tournament archers: World Archery caps draw weight at 60 lbs. For 3D competition, arrow speed is limited to 300 fps. So if you're buying a bow for competition, get advice before purchase to make sure your configuration is rules-compliant.

Regulations on bowhunting differ widely by country. Bowhunting is permitted in many parts of Europe and North America, but prohibited or heavily restricted in others, including Germany. If hunting is on your list, check your local laws first.

Frequently asked questions about right-hand compound bows

Do I need a licence to own a compound bow?

Generally no. In Germany, Austria and most of Europe, bows are classified as sporting goods, not firearms. No licence, permit or registration is required, and there's no minimum age for purchase. Rules vary by country and US state, so check your local regulations if you're outside continental Europe.

Do I need to unstring my compound bow when not in use?

No. Unlike recurve or longbows, a compound stays drawn permanently. The materials are built for sustained tension. Letting the bow down requires a bow press and should only be done by a qualified technician.

What draw weight is sensible for a beginner?

Men start with 35 to 40 lbs peak weight, women with 25 to 30 lbs. With a compound, you need to handle the full peak weight on the draw, the let-off only kicks in at full draw. Choosing too high a draw weight is the most common beginner mistake and ruins your form.

Can I convert a right-hand compound to a left-hand bow?

No. The sight window is asymmetrically machined and the cam system runs mirror-image. A conversion would effectively be a full rebuild and cost as much as a new bow. That's why determining eye dominance before purchase matters so much.

How fast does a compound bow actually shoot?

Entry-level models reach 280 to 310 fps (around 305 to 340 km/h, or 190 to 210 mph). High-end models like the HOYT Concept X 40 or MATHEWS Title 38 hit 320 to 350+ fps (350 to 385 km/h, or 220 to 240 mph). Real-world speeds depend on arrow weight, draw length and configured draw weight. Every inch of shorter draw length subtracts roughly 10 fps.

Is a compound bow suitable for beginners?

Yes, with caveats. The let-off makes holding easier, the sight improves accuracy. That said, the technology is complex, and a compound needs to be individually fitted to your draw length, draw weight and nocking point. We recommend a trial lesson at a club or professional fitting before your first purchase.